12 Noise reduction

12 Noise Reduction

As I briefly mentioned earlier, noise is something all digital photographers have to deal with sooner or later but, the smaller the sensor in your camera, the bigger the noise problem.

Even if you can't see the noise, it's always there, making your files bigger. Even invisibly low levels of noise can double the file size. It's worth getting rid of it just to save the memory space and make emailing pictures quicker and easier.

What is noise?

Noise is variation between adjacent pixels where there should be no variation. Up close and personal, it looks blotchy, like the darker parts of this stonework.


It happens more in lower light, or with a smaller sensor, for two different reasons. Each pixel in your camera catches a bunch of photons but it's inexact so it's actually a bunch plus or minus a bit. Bigger sensors (this is physical bigness, not how many pixels), catch bigger bunches but the bit remains the same. Here's an example.

20   photons +/- 1 = variation of 2 out of 20 or 10%
100 photons +/- 1 = variation of 2 out of 100 or 2%

Those numbers are completely made up but it shows that bigger pixels have less variation, so less noise.

The second cause of noise is lower light levels. The lower the light level, the more +/- you get. This happens in two ways too. If your whole subject is dark, your camera's shutter has to be open for longer. The longer it's open, the bigger the +/- bit gets for your whole photograph. If you take a bright picture with really dark shadows (like my church window), the shadowy bits haven't had enough time to fill their pixels and you get a bigger +/- bit but only in those dark details. More numbers coming up:

100 photons +/- 1 = variation of 2 out of 100 or 2%
100 photons +/- 5 = variation of 10 out of 100 or 10%

How do I get rid of it?

Top tip: Noiseware Community Edition is a free program that removes noise better than anything else I've used.

Noise reduction should always be the last thing you do to a photograph, because it removes a lot of the hidden information that Photoshop uses but you can't see. You won't get such good results if you try photoshopping after using Noiseware.

There are a load of pre-set levels of noise reduction but start with the default setting (obvious really) and see what it does. If you zoom in on your image until you can actually see the noise, you'll also get to see how much disappears. Holding down the mouse button over the image shows you the “before” and letting go shows you the “after” so you can compare.

90% of the time, the only change I make to the settings is to add a touch of sharpening (+2). Try it and you'll see why.

You can sharpen images in Photoshop and I'll talk about that later, but Noiseware (Default +2 sharpening) is a quick and easy way to clean up a photo.


In this detail of a butterfly, you should be able to make out the grainy texture of the noise in the green background. Noiseware (set on default +2 sharpening) has made it all go away without any detriment to the detail of the butterfly.

The “before” image is 209K and the “after” image is 40.4K. That's less than 20% of the original file size and no loss of visible detail. It just goes to show you how much hidden information there is in a digital photo. If you're posting on social media sites, people will appreciate the smaller file sizes. Here's the “before” and “after” of the full picture.


Now you can see how far we had to zoom to see the noise. The full image is about 12 million pixels and went from 6.6MB right down to 1.3MB but I defy you to spot any loss of quality.

Seriously, why wouldn't you do that to every picture?

By default, Noiseware saves it's results with “_filtered” appended to the original filename so you'll be able to go back and edit the original if you feel the need. Remember, you've just stripped out a lot of hidden detail you might need if you want to edit it again. I strongly recommend you keep both copies. I have a separate folder for my unfiltered photos and I dump them into there just in case.

Just-in-cases include wanting to make some tricky colour profile changes to an image for professional printing. So I was glad to have that backup copy.

As mentioned right at the beginning, I recommend keeping the original, completely unedited photo too. As your skills improve, you may want to take another crack at tweaking a photograph. You cannot take the same photo twice so don't be a disk space miser. Keep copies.